Hymn to Ninkasi

I was reminded at a homebrewers event the other day that the 2016 National Homebrew Competition is approaching. I’ve never competed before but I’m contemplating making a foray this year. I went to the competition website to familiarize myself with the process and found out that the highest honor a winner can get is called the Ninkasi Award. Who’s Ninkasi? She is the Sumerian goddess of brewing and the daughter of the king of Uruk.  

To me this invokes mixed feelings. On the one hand I find it very fitting that this prestigious award is named after the character to whom the first ever written beer recipe was dedicated. 

But on the other hand it is also ironic that while American brewers hold the Ninkasi’s name in such reverence, she is barely known in today’s Mesopotamia. In fact, I had never heard of her until a few years ago when a friend recommended I read a book called "The History of the World in 6 Glasses," which described the delicious and intimate relationship ancient Mesopotamians had with their brews. It is also sad that it is fairly reasonable to assume that if Ninkasi were to show up in her hometown, near today’s Samawa, and try to catch up where she left off she would probably be chased down by an angry mob.

Iraqis today need a lot of things: reconciliation and power-sharing, security assistance, trainers and advisers, airstrikes, higher oil prices, you name it…but above all, they can all use a pint or three. Cheers!

A Date with Ninkasi. Stout brewed with pale and roasted malt, flaked oats, and Iraqi dates syrup. 

Hymn to Ninkasi

Borne of the flowing water,

Tenderly cared for by the Ninhursag,

Borne of the flowing water,

Tenderly cared for by the Ninhursag,

Having founded your town by the sacred lake,

She finished its great walls for you,

Ninkasi, having founded your town by the sacred lake,

She finished it's walls for you,

Your father is Enki, Lord Nidimmud,

Your mother is Ninti, the queen of the sacred lake.

Ninkasi, your father is Enki, Lord Nidimmud,

Your mother is Ninti, the queen of the sacred lake.

You are the one who handles the dough [and] with a big shovel,

Mixing in a pit, the bappir with sweet aromatics,

Ninkasi, you are the one who handles the dough [and] with a big shovel,

Mixing in a pit, the bappir with [date] - honey,

You are the one who bakes the bappir in the big oven,

Puts in order the piles of hulled grains,

Ninkasi, you are the one who bakes the bappir in the big oven,

Puts in order the piles of hulled grains,

You are the one who waters the malt set on the ground,

The noble dogs keep away even the potentates,

Ninkasi, you are the one who waters the malt set on the ground,

The noble dogs keep away even the potentates,

You are the one who soaks the malt in a jar,

The waves rise, the waves fall.

Ninkasi, you are the one who soaks the malt in a jar,

The waves rise, the waves fall.

You are the one who spreads the cooked mash on large reed mats,

Coolness overcomes,

Ninkasi, you are the one who spreads the cooked mash on large reed mats,

Coolness overcomes,

You are the one who holds with both hands the great sweet wort,

Brewing [it] with honey [and] wine

(You the sweet wort to the vessel)

Ninkasi, (...)(You the sweet wort to the vessel)

The filtering vat, which makes a pleasant sound,

You place appropriately on a large collector vat.

Ninkasi, the filtering vat, which makes a pleasant sound,

You place appropriately on a large collector vat.

When you pour out the filtered beer of the collector vat,

It is [like] the onrush of Tigris and Euphrates.

Ninkasi, you are the one who pours out the filtered beer of the collector vat,

It is [like] the onrush of Tigris and Euphrates.